Posted by Marcus Song on September 25th, 2006 — Posted in Betta Breeding
Breeding Bettas can be fun but it can be a challenge as well.
Just because you are interested in breeding Bettas, it doesn’t mean that the Bettas will be. Your job is to set the mood for love.
Also keep in mind that you might become too successful. The typical highly-fertile female can produce a few hundred eggs… meaning you might wind up with a few hundred Bettas!
The good news though is that your local pet store will often be happy to take them off your hands — and often for as much as a dollar a piece or on rare occasions as much as $2.50 or $3.00.
When the time comes that you’re ready to give it a shot, follow the tips and you could be rewarded with a brood of new fry.
Breeding Bettas can be fun but it can be a challenge as well. Just because you are interested in breeding Bettas, it doesn’t mean that the Bettas will be. Your job is to set the mood for love, so your male blows a bubble nest and they get ready to have little baby bettas. In the next post I’ll talk about the next step.
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Posted by Marcus Song on September 25th, 2006 — Posted in Learn All About Bettas
Although there are many species of Betta, the most common species that is kept and bred is known as the Betta splendens or the Siamese Fighting Fish.
The name “Betta” is said to be derived from an ancient Asian warrior clan known as the Bettah, although some accounts differ.
Bettas have their origins in Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam where, some 150 years ago, the sport of fighting Bettas was actually regulated and taxed by the King of Siam. As popular then as boxing is today, people would bet all of their money, and sometimes their personal belongings and children, on the outcome of just one fight. Thailand was once known as Siam which explains the Siamese Fighting Fish label.
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Posted by Marcus Song on September 24th, 2006 — Posted in Betta Health
Although you can’t perform mouth-to-mouth on a sick or injured fish, there are some simple first aid techniques you should be aware of.
1. Remove any fish that is exhibiting signs of illness or disease from the general fish population.
2. Test the water for ammonia, nitrites, pH, and oxygen levels. The ammonia and nitrites should be 0; pH should be between 6.8 and 7.0. Dissolved oxygen levels should be above 60%.
Betta Lover’s Tip: An easy way to reduce nitrites and ammonia, a big cause of betta illnesses, in your water is to put in a piece of Java Moss.
3. Remove any dead fish at once. Refrigerate in a baggie until you can get it to a vet or lab for examination.
4. Perform a 50% water change using aged and treated water.
5. Remove live plants and conduct a salt treatment.
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Posted by Marcus Song on September 24th, 2006 — Posted in Betta Health
If you notice your Betta’s fins are withering away and disintegrating (and there aren’t any obvious causes like aquarium mates attacking your little guy), you most likely have a case of fin rot.
Fin rot is a condition caused most commonly by dirty water. Bacteria blooms when your Betta’s feces and uneaten food accumulate. So make sure to keep to a regular water cleaning schedule. Also make sure to keep your Betta’s water at the tried-and-tested optimal temperature as I talk about in my book.
Try to detect and treat the condition early. You see, the good news is that your Betta’s fins will grow back.
Apply a product called “Neosulfex” by Aquatronics (available at almost all pet stores that sell aquarium supplies). It should take about a month to work, so be patient. If Neosulfex is not fully effective, also use a product called Jungle Fungus Eliminator.
Meanwhile, keep your sick Betta separate from your other fish, since fin rot is contagious.
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